Crossing the Nile

Al-Ashmounein, Qussqam, Meir

Once more crossing the Nile, back to its west bank, the Holy Family traveled southwards to the town of Al-Ashmounein (22) or Harmopolis Magna but it seems that they did not tarry long there. Leaving behind them the rubble of fallen idols, they continued to Dairout Al-Sharif (which, like Al-Ashmounein had an alternative Greek name, Philes); and thence to Qussqam (28) (or Qost-Qoussia). Here, too, the recorded events testify that the townsfolk were infuriated when the stone statue of their local deity cracked and fell, and evicted the Holy Family from the town. A historically recorded incident dating to that period refers to the devastation of Qussqam, and Coptic tradition asserts that the ruin that befell the town was the consequence of its violent rejection of the gentle visitors.

There exists an entirely different story in the warm welcome with which the holy refugees were met at their next stop at Meir (29) (or Meira) only 7miles west of Qoussia. Here, they found hospitality wherever they went, for which the town and its people were abundantly blessed. And again another story relates that the two robbers who earlier had attacked the Holy Family and since then had followed them closely assaulted them again here with sword and covered faces. They demanded the garments of Jesus, Mary and Joseph and even tore the veil off Mary’s head. One of the thieves who saw that Mary wept felt remorse and intended to return the clothes to them. After Jesus had put his clothes on again he told his mother: “Mary, I will be crucified in Jerusalem and these two thieves will be crucified with me. The thief who just returned our clothes will realize who I am and believe in me. He will be the first one to be in paradise even before Adam and his descendants.”

Now it was time for the Holy Family to set out for what is arguably the most meaningful destination of all in the land of Egypt, the place where there would be "an altar to the Lord in the midst of the land of Egypt", Gabal (Mount) Qussqam. The Monastery of Al-Moharraq was built around the area where the Holy Family remained just over six months. Their time was spent mainly in a cave, which became, in the Coptic era, the altar of the Church of Virgin Mary and the altar stone supposedly was the resting place of the Child Jesus during the months He dwelt there.

Sometimes this place is referred to as the Second Bethlehem. It is believed that at the very spot where Al-Moharraq Monastery stands, the Angel of the Lord appeared to Joseph in a dream, and said: "Arise, and take the young Child and His mother, and go into the land of Israel; for they are dead which sought the young Child’s life ". (Mt.2:20)      

Tradition relates that the church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary in Dair al-Moharraq was the first church built in Egypt. It is believed that it was built immediately after St. Mark’s arrival in Egypt around 60AD.